A Makeup Artist Showed Me Exactly How to Stop Foundation Looking Patchy, Cakey & Dry

Ever wanted to ask a beauty editor your burning beauty questions? Now you can with our new monthly series Ask Amy!

Every month, Adore's Senior Editor Amy Clark will be answering a customer beauty question. From skincare myths and hair concerns to the best beauty tools and makeup buys, there's no such thing as a dumb beauty question.

Last month, we covered the products you need to wake up with glowier-looking skin (you can catch up here).

This month's question? Help! How do I stop my makeup from looking patchy and flaky?

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Patchy, flaky foundation has to be right up there with the most annoying of first world problems.

Like your Uber Eats order being cancelled and unforecasted rain, it's no big deal in the scheme of things.

But in that moment, it sucks.

In fact, 'why does my makeup always look patchy' is one of the most commonly Googled beauty questions.

I have a few ideas on the topic of fixing crusty foundation, but I decided to ask my colleague and professional makeup artist Marie Poulos (@mariepoulos.mua) how she approaches this problem with her clients.

*And I mean, would you LOOK at her flawless makeup!? This selfie alone is enough to convince me to do literally anything Marie says.

Turns out, the solution has almost nothing to do with your foundation...

Why Does My Makeup Always Look Patchy?

A quick editor's note before we begin:

Real human skin has texture. Pores are normal. Uneven skin tone is normal. Blemishes and blackheads and random little bumps are normal.

Unless you're a wax figurine (or you've been using cosmeceutical skincare and wearing sunscreen religiously from an early age, or have had cosmetic injectables), skin won't always look completely smooth.

Personally, I think it's really beautiful when you can see healthy, hydrated skin and natural texture showing through a stunning foundation.

This article isn't about erasing natural skin texture. We love when skin looks like skin!

Rather, it's for anyone who doesn't love the way foundation gathers, creases or clings to dry and/or porous areas of the skin.

Or those who find no matter how they apply their foundation, it always ends up balling, pilling, or making flaky skin look even flakier.

Below, you'll find some makeup artist tips on how to get as seamless a makeup application as is possible on human skin, but part of it is accepting and working with your natural skin type and texture.

We good? Great! Onwards!

So, when I first asked Marie to share her ~thoughts~ on how to fix flaky foundation, she said:

"90 per cent of the time, flaky makeup is caused by using the wrong skincare product(s), not the wrong foundation!"

And it makes total sense. Because no matter how much your foundation costs or how much time and effort you put into applying it, the makeup will only ever look as smooth as the canvas.

The tools matter too - and we'll get to an epic foundation application hack a bit later - but a smooth, even makeup finish starts with skin care.

Both your regular skincare routine AND the skincare products you apply before your foundation.

Keep scrolling for Marie's top hacks on how to avoid pilling, patchiness, crusty flakes (especially around the nose) and forehead texture when applying foundation.

1. Are You Cleansing Properly?

Sounds simple (and boring), but leftover makeup, sunscreen and grime can build up in your pores.

Marie adds, "You'd be surprised how many people just use makeup wipes [to cleanse]. The makeup just builds up and creates this texture that you can only sometimes see with makeup on."

Try using a balm or oil cleanser to remove makeup followed by a second gel, cream or milk cleanser - this is called 'double cleansing'.

Watch the video below to learn more about finding the right cleanser for your skin type.

Here's a list of my favourite cleansers for removing makeup:

2. Add An Exfoliant Into Your Skincare Routine.

Remember how exfoliation is the key to glowy skin? Same goes for smoother skin texture.

Regular exfoliation one to three times a week using an exfoliant for your skin type will remove built up dead skin cells, dry bits and congestion.

This could look like using a gentle exfoliating face wash like Aesthetics Rx AHA Cream Cleanser 125ml as your second cleanser, or applying a glycolic acid exfoliating serum like Skin Virtue Pure Radiance Glow Serum 50ml a few times a week at night.

You could also apply a thick layer of Aspect Fruit Enzyme Mask 50g before bed for supple, smoother-looking skin when you wake up. Or swipe a bit of Alpha-H Liquid Gold on a cotton pad over the skin in the morning before your serums, moisturiser and/or sunscreen.

For more exfoliation tips and product recommendations, check out our exfoliation Beauty IQ article or watch the exfoliation YouTube video below.

3. Are You Using the Right Moisturiser?

Fact: Most of us have had (or currently have) dehydrated skin.

Foundation will always look more seamless when applied on hydrated skin. Sure, the skincare products under your makeup matter, but using a moisturiser daily is just as important.

"Some people say they have really oily skin, so they'll only use very lightweight moisturisers or even skip moisturiser and go straight to a mattifying primer," Marie says.

"Often, their skin is actually dehydrated, leaving the outer layers with dryness and texture. Using an emollient barrier cream with moisturising ingredients as a part of your regular skincare routine will help soften the skin."

Here are some of Marie's favourite emollient creams for softening flaky bits:

If you're worried about greasiness, save thicker creams and face oils for night time.

Plus, a hot tip for anyone who gets crusty bits on the sides of their nose like I do:

Apply a thick layer of Lanolips Golden Dry Skin All Over Salve wherever you get dry. It creates a barrier that seals in moisture and softens crustiness.

4. Skin Prep For Smoother Foundation.

OK, now you've got your skin care sorted, here's what to put on your face under your foundation.

Face sucking the life out of your makeup? Prep your skin with a hydrating serum first.

Beauté Pacifique Submersive Serum Paradoxe 30ml is a gem of a product from one of my favourite skincare brands Beauté Pacifique.

I recently rediscovered this lush serum/oil hybrid, and honestly, it makes foundation glide on my super dry, thirsty skin like butter.

You can use it day or night as a face oil, before makeup as a hydrating foundation primer, or even by adding a drop to your foundation!

You could also try a hydrating primer to add extra hydration to the skin, while also giving your foundation something to grip onto for a long-wearing finish.

Giorgio Armani Luminous Silk Hydrating Primer and Embryolisse Lait-Crème Concentré Moisturiser are both excellent.

Same goes for sunscreens like Aspect Sun Hydrating Face SPF 50+ 75ml and Ultra Violette Supreme Screen SPF 50+ Hydrating Facial Sunscreen that contain hydrating ingredients.

OK, but what about us oily skin-havers, you ask?

"You might be oily due to the skin being dehydrated, but sorting out your skincare routine will help with that!" Marie says.

"True oily or combination skin types who find foundation separates or looks patchy can apply a mattifying primer like MAKE UP FOR EVER Step 1 Pore Minimizer Primer 30ml over the top of your hydrating products, but only where you get oily like the forehead, nose and chin."

Adore's resident oily skin type Hannah does exactly this to achieve her signature dewy foundation finish that lasts on her oily skin all day!

5. How to Stop Foundation Separating and Pilling.

Find your foundation balls up and flakes off? This usually means your skincare products underneath are clashing.

Always leave enough time for your serums and moisturisers to dry between layers. Applying hydrating serums to damp skin can also help.

If foundation separation is your issue, try to use products with similar textures.

For example, water and oil repel each other, so if your foundation is water-based, using an oil underneath your makeup might cause separation.

Oh, and Marie says adding more powder to fix foundation that's separated or settled in pores only accentuates skin texture more. Her tip?

"Use a small brush to apply powder precisely only to oily areas. Touching up during the day isn't a bad thing - a little touch up keeps foundation looking fresh, whereas packing on powder adds extra texture to the skin."

6. How to Apply Foundation For A Seamless Finish.

Finally, let's talk about how you're applying your foundation.

I've always loved using a flat buffing foundation brush to apply my base, but Marie says it can actually make flaking or dryness look more textured than it is.

"Brushing or rubbing foundation around with a brush can make texture more noticeable. If texture is a concern, try pressing and pushing product into the skin with a damp makeup sponge instead."

Real Techniques Miracle Finish Sponge is amazing (and affordable) for a seamless foundation finish.

Spectrum Pink Wonder Sponge is another excellent option.

You can also use different size sponges in the Real Techniques Miracle Sponges 6 pack to blend concealer, powder and cream bronzers and blushes.

Dampen your sponge with water, a hydrating face mist or a setting spray like M.A.C COSMETICS Prep + Prime Fix+ then squeeze out excess moisture and bounce the sponge to blend your base.

What About the Best Foundation For Dry, Flaky Skin?

Hang on... how come we haven't talked about the best foundation to use to stop makeup looking cakey?

Because as Marie says, "Nine times out of 10, patchy, flaky foundation is caused by a lack of skin care."

And what Marie says, goes.

If you're still having issues with your foundation after trying these tips, then let's chat about if you're using the 'wrong' foundation.

P.S. Another of Adore's ridiculously talented in-house makeup artists Megan put together this YouTube video on choosing the perfect foundation for your skin below.

Got a burning beauty question? Head to @adorebeauty on Instagram and send us a DM to submit your Ask Amy question.

Plus, here's some more content on nailing your foundation:

• The Difference Between Our 4 Best-Selling Foundations

• My Dry Skin Makeup Routine That Looks Dewy All Day (Even in Office Air Con)

• I'm a Makeup Artist and I Was Shocked By How Much I Love This New Mineral Foundation

• Bargain vs Bougie: The 6 Best Foundations For Mature Skin

• Exactly How I Get a Flawless, Dewy Finish That Lasts All Night