Sunscreen is the most non-negotiable, integral part of my skincare routine (and honestly, it should be yours too.) Which is why finding one that a) works with my skin type and b) works well under my makeup or on top of the rest of my skincare is so important.
Plus, please tell me something worse than applying sunscreen that causes pilling – because it’s the worst (#firstworldproblem).
Anyway, normally I don’t tend to discriminate between chemical or physical formulations and just use whatever I feel like on the day. However, since I’m currently pregnant I’ve been finding that physical sunscreens seem to make my skin happier. And now, the way they’re getting formulated is making them look better on the skin as well.
What's The Difference Between Physical & Chemical Sunscreens?
But first, let's discuss the difference between physical and chemical sunscreens. You see, chemical sunscreens (that use ingredients such as: avobenzone, octocrylene, octinoxate etc…) work by absorbing UV rays and transforming them into heat which is then released from the skin. They can be used on most skin types and are also my choice of sunscreen when I run or exercise outdoors as they tend to be more resistant to sweat.
Physical sunscreens on the other hand, (that use ingredients like: titanium dioxide and zinc oxide, and are also sometimes called mineral sunscreens) tend to sit on the skin and work by reflecting a percentage of those UV rays. Also, despite what the name suggests ‘physical sunscreens’ (like everything else in our world) are made up of chemicals too – just need to cover that quickly.
Ellie Douglas, Senior Training Specialist for
Dermalogica additionally tells me that “as well as protecting against UV rays, we know that physical sunscreens can help defend against blue light, which is emitted from our smart devices and is showing to be a modern driver of premature ageing.” Which is interesting info for our lifestyles.
However, one is not better than the other.
In fact, whether you apply a physical or a chemical SPF to your skin in the morning, as long as you apply it correctly (ie. last step of your skincare routine, before your makeup and at least one whole teaspoon worth) the evidence shows that both types of sunscreen are equally as effective at preventing UV damage.
So the choice is up to you. I guess it just depends on the way your skin reacts to different ingredients as well as the look and feel of the product on your face/body. The main thing is that you need to wear one.
And of course, SPF is only one part of sun protection!
Always seek shade, and wear sunnies, a hat and protective clothing. Use sufficient sunscreen for all unprotected areas and reapply sunscreen as directed. Always read the label. You know the drill.
The Skin Types That Benefit Most From Physical Formulas:
I generally like to recommend physical sunscreens to people who have sensitive skin or to anybody that is pregnant. Chemical sunscreens also tend to cause more allergic reactions so if one has made you break out in the past then I’d swap over to a physical formula.
I also prefer to use a physical blocker following any advanced in clinic skin treatments like lasers, peels or skin needling just to ensure no adverse reactions and to let the skin heal.
Ellie reminds us that using physical sunscreens following in clinic treatments are the better option too as “they deflect the heat and energy given off by the sun, plus use less ingredients and sit on top of the skin.”
The Ingredients You'll Find In A Physical SPF:
The main ingredients you will find in a physical sunscreen are zinc oxide and titanium dioxide.
“A challenge with these ingredients is that they can be quite thick and leave a veil of white on the skin,” Ellie says.
Which is true. In fact, that’s probably the most annoying thing about using a physical sunscreen over a chemical one - the colour payoff and the way they sit on the skin.
However, as previously mentioned, the formulas are rapidly evolving to meet our expectations. It's worth mentioning, you'll find most physicals in an SPF30, not 50.
THE physical SPF my face has become obsessed with lately, and one I want to shout from the rooftops about. It’s quite sheer so leaves little to no residue, making it amazing for medium toned skin peeps (like moi!). It also won’t cause your skincare to pill and works perfectly under makeup. Bonus: its formula also contains botanicals and vitamins to help soothe and nourish the skin.
Medik8 Physical Sunscreen SPF30 I’m not sure why this product isn’t hyped up more, maybe because it’s a little pricey? But it delivers the goods. I actually do still find it can leave the skin a little white, so you need to put in a little extra effort to rub it onto your face properly. However, because of the size of the bottle and the consistency, this sunscreen works well on your body too. So, a good one to try that = bang for your buck!
Ultra Violette Clean Screen SPF 30 Ok the last one is a bit of a chemical/physical hybrid although can still be filed under physical as the filters used were specifically chosen for their gentleness on sensitive skin and low chemical load, SO #justified. Its primary filter is titanium dioxide, however, it also uses tinosorb M and chemical filter Uvinal A plus. Anyway it’s non-whitening and super hydrating - all while still being quite mattifying and perfect for sensitive skin. Bonus: the product will look cute on your Insta feed.