A Dermal Therapist’s Tips to Minimise Dry, Cakey Makeup in Winter
Yads Cauchi is a Dermal Clinician, Nutritionist (BHSc, MSc) and Beauty Journalist. She's also a mum of four. Evidence based skin health and nutrition are her thing and she works from her own skin clinic based in Canberra - you can find her there, or on Instagram and TikTok @yadscauchiskin.
The other week I popped onto my Instagram stories for a chat and then ping, ping, ping - the notifications with questions on my makeup and the hydration status of my skin started.
And I know this is a strange thing to be commenting on, but anybody that is into beauty will understand - because dry, cakey makeup is such a skin woe, especially through winter so the people wanted to know - and I’m here to spill the tea.
You see, I’m sure that 99% of people have, on at least one occasion, tried to get their face makeup ready only to find it dry/patchy and just well… cakey.
Which is not it. And the arctic temps in Australia at the moment aren’t helping.
Although as a Dermal Therapist, I do have to tell you that the key at minimising dry/cakey makeup through winter is all about THE SKIN PREP underneath.
Yes, your skin health matters.
And now you might be thinking, but “I do skin prep! I do!”
And I’m here to question the status of that skin prep - and whether the products you’re using are right for your skin.
Because like I always say, there are no bad products - just the wrong ones for you.
So I will try to give you options - and things to think about!
Let’s get into it.
Skin Prep for Minimising Dry, Cakey Makeup.
Step 1. Do you cleanse in the morning? You should.
There are a ton of people that don’t cleanse in the morning and I get that for many skins it can feel too *much*, but as a Dermal Therapist I do have to lecture you on the importance of cleansing your skin.
It not only properly preps your skin for the serums you follow with, but it will prep your skin for makeup as well.
If you hate cleansing, maybe you could try something much gentler - like a cream that won’t feel stripping.
Or if you’re noticing a little flakiness, or your skin feels a little drier, a gentle enzyme based cleanser can also help get rid of those tiny flakes.
I know it seems counterintuitive, but dry skin does also need to be gently exfoliated in order for your other hydrating and nourishing products to work their magic.
Try:
- Dermalist Ultra Hydrating Lactic Cleanser 200ml - very gentle lactic acid (LA) based exfoliating cleanser.
- La Roche-Posay Toleriane Dermo-Cleanser - very gentle cream based cleanser.
2. Ask yourself ‘When was the last time I exfoliated?’ or ‘Had a clinical treatment?”
Adding to the importance of cleansing, is also trying to pinpoint the best way to exfoliate your skin.
As I said, you could exfoliate very gently with a cleanser in the morning (how often will depend on each skin), or even a gentle toner or mask could work here.
The key is to find the right exfoliant for you - and some skins might not even need to exfoliate at all. I know! Confusing.
But if you are having trouble with dry, cakey makeup, just remember a little exfoliation every now and then will help get rid of dead skin cells which will help visibly brighten and smooth and help with how your makeup sits on your skin!
Try:
- Viviology Liquid Exfoliant 200mL - a gentle lactic and polyhydroxy acid toner.
- Aspect Fruit Enzyme Mask 50g - a gentle enzyme based exfoliating mask. Great for any pre-events too!
Ditto, clinical treatments like chemical peels and laser resurfacing can help with overall texture, and the overall health of your skin.
So with my own clinic, obviously I do regular treatments on myself. And I think they’re so important.
They’re like a mini service for your face and will definitely help with the way your makeup sits and looks on your face.
3. Hydration! Hydration! Hydration!
Ok, so yes, cleansing and exfoliating is important but so is hydration.
Hydrated skin = healthy skin!
So before you do your makeup you do need to make sure your skin is hydrated.
This is where you could be incorporating an extra plumping hydrating toner or essence into your routine, before you use your normal serums and/or moisturiser.
There are so many great budget friendly options available now.
Try:
- Sulwhasoo Essential Comfort Balancing Water Toner 150ML - (which is especially good if your skin is slightly irritated.)
- Sulwhasoo First Care Activating Serum 90ML - is also iconic and loaded with gentle age management benefits.
- Cosmedix Mystic Hydrating Treatment - is a personal fave for spraying over makeup - and all day long for a hydrated glow.
4. Do you really need a dedicated hydrating serum?
For a lot of skins adding a little more juicy-ness to a morning routine might be enough via an additional toner and/or essence, BUT if your skin is still dying of thirst this is where a dedicated hydrating serum can come in handy.
Dry and dehydrated skins will benefit most, but you need to lock it in with a moisturiser for full benefit!
Heres a couple of budget vs bougie hyaluronic acids below.
Try:
- L'Oreal Paris Revitalift Filler 1.5% Pure Hyaluronic Acid Anti-Wrinkle Serum 30ml - budget friendly super plumping.
- Cosmedix Surge Hyaluronic Acid Booster - bougier, but also formulated with niacinamide so it is calming and great for a sensitised skin.
5. Your moisturiser needs to be right for your skin!
If you’re too combo/oily your makeup could separate if your moisturiser is too thick for your skin.
Ditto if you’re more dry/dehydrated and you’re using something gel-like or not nourishing enough, your makeup won’t sit well.
Take stock of your moisturiser and ask yourself if it's working.
P.S. most of the time, for makeup prep I do prefer a separate moisturiser to my SPF, unless you are very oily/acne-prone and just hate the feeling of moisturiser.
Try:
Pre-makeup moisturisers dry/dehydrated skin:
6. Glowy SPF as your primer.
Ok so this last step is very specific to me as a Dermal Therapist because I don’t use primers.
Instead my SPF is my primer because now there are so many great glowy SPF’s on the market and they can really make your skin GLOW.
And I’m not averse to chemical options - in fact, unpopular opinion - I prefer them.
The SPF products below I use regularly for a glowy makeup look that leads to the ping, ping, pings of nosey questions asking about the hydration status of my skin, which is so funny but also you all understand.
Try:
- Ultra Violette Supreme Screen Hydrating Facial SKINSCREEN SPF50+ - hydrating and non SPF FEELING, best all rounder.
- Aspect Sun Hydrating Face SPF 50+ 75ml - veeeerrry glowy and quite thick so I wouldn’t use it on its own, but under makeup it sits so well - amazing for a dry skin.
- La Roche-Posay Anthelios KA+ SPF 50+ 50ml - another very glowy SPF. Like, VERY glowy/ a little shiny but you can pat it down with a bit of powder. I always get asked about my skin when I wear this - with makeup on top!
Finally...
Finally, cream products will help.
Do you normally use a powder bronzer/blush? Try a cream and set with a tiny bit of powder instead.
Is your foundation super matte? Try a satin or lighter dewy finish and start by applying less.
You can build up coverage but if you apply too much it's harder to remove.
Remember less is more when makeup is feeling dry and cakey. So start slowly and build from there. And if you’re still stuck re: your skincare - book a consultation!
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