As someone with oily skin I have to admit that the subject of this guide makes me feel a little bit stressed.
However, if you’re getting into skincare I think it’s perfectly fair to wonder, do you need cleanser? (Or any product for that matter).
There are three key questions I usually receive about cleansing:
Do I need a cleanser?
Should I use a cleanser both morning and night?
What does a cleanser do for my skin?
Honestly, I don’t blame anyone for wondering, is cleanser necessary?
Let’s face it, cleansing is pretty boring and expensive. If I didn’t know how important it was I probably wouldn’t do it as regularly either.
So, here’s a run down of what cleansing *actually* does, when you need to do it, and an intro into a few of our favourite cleansing products for every skin type.
The Case Against Cleansing
The case against cleansing isn’t completely unfounded.
One of the main arguments against regular cleansing suggests that it overstrips the skin and can leave it unbalanced, particularly if it is already dry.
Now, this can certainly happen if you are overcleansing or using the wrong cleanser for your skin type.
For instance, my sensitive skin doesn’t seem to like SLS (at all). I’ve also found that over time I break out if I use an oil cleanser on it’s own.
So, for those of you who think that overzealous cleansing just leads to dryness and breakouts, we hear you, but you might just be using the wrong cleanser...
So, Why Can’t I Just Wash My Face with Water?
Look, if you want to keep it simple and you have fairly normal skin, you can go ahead and wash your face with water and a washcloth. Particularly in the morning, using water is fine.
However, there are plenty of reasons why you should absolutely be using a cleanser in the evening.
There are plenty of things that end up on our face by the end of the day that water alone cannot remove (e.g. oil, sweat, dirt, pollutants, makeup, SPF, etc.)
So, what does cleanser do? Lab Muffin Beauty Science, gives the helpful analogy of thinking of our faces as a dirty pan - you can’t get the grease off alone, you need detergents (or surfactants!) to achieve a thorough clean.
An oil cleanser is designed to help break down and oil soluble products sitting on the surface of the skin, such as makeup.
This makes it easier for you to go in with your second (water-based) cleanser, which should contain surfactants (found in most gel or foaming cleansers) to actually clean your skin.
What I’ve just described is a process called double cleansing, which is particularly useful when removing makeup and great for those with oily or acne-prone skin.
Why Should I Use a Facial Cleanser Instead of Soap?
Soap is a sink staple that's always on hand for a quick wash. Soap is fast and easy to use. It's cheap, and it gets the job done. But should you be using soap on your face? Quick answer, no we don't recommend it.
Soap is alkaline, with a pH often between 9 and 10. When skin is washed with soap, the acid mantle is temporarily disrupted. Over time, skin's pH levels will restore on their own. Healthy skin can re-acidify within a few hours after use of alkaline treatments such as soap. However, this ability to repair is slowed with regular use of soaps, eventually leading to dryness and irritation. You should use a face cleanser in place of soap, as cleansers work just as effectively but within a pH range similar to that of your skin.
