Week One of New York Fall Fashion Week, and backstage at Richard Chai there was an emphasis on androgynous beauty with models wearing neutral semi-matte nails in Essie's shade of 'Glamour Purse', topped off with Essie's 'Man-e-cure' for a subtle matte finish.   The model's Essie manicures were inspired by the gorgeous wool and cashmere clothing in Richard Chai's collection to work in beautifully with the textures of the fabric.

Costello Taglipietra's show was quite the contrast to Richard Chai, with universally flattering chocolate browns and wines carried throughout the collection. The model's hair was pulled back and slick while manicured nails mirrored the designers' sumptuous palette, lacquered in Essie's 'Bordeaux' and 'Carry On' shades with a coat of 'Little Brown Dress' on top. Dreamy!

Creatures of the Wind created a mystical feel on the runway: whimsical and airy elements were found throughout the collection. Essie's manicures saw the models with forest-green nails - two coats of 'Sew Psyched' topped with a fine coat of 'Mint Candy Apple'.

Douglas Hannant took 70s glamour to the runway boldly and with a modern twist. Glossy straight locks with long lashes provided the required accoutrements to the bright hues and rich textures of the collection. Manicures were completed with Essie's shades of 'Potato Fields' topped off with the 'Good to Go' rapid dry top coat.

Shop Essie products now

Australia's leading makeup artist, Napoleon Perdis, is again Makeup Director of the David Jones Autumn/Winter 2012 Fashion Launch. Napoleon has created three exclusive looks for the event. Says Perdis: "I'm so happy to be back in Sydney for the David Jones Autumn Winter 2012 Fashion Launch. This is my second season directing the makeup looks for the show and I really enjoy the collaboration with the great team that David Jones is known for pulling together.  I'm particularly proud of this makeup direction; not only will it make for a great runway statement but a very wearable reality for everyday.

LOOK 1: LAURA MARS

This first look is a nod to feminine strength and glamour; a glossy burgundy lip teamed with a soft yet fresh eye - one for the ultimate modern woman!

This look has been inspired by the fashion murder mystery "The Eyes of Laura Mars": a cult hit in the late 1970s. The fabulous Faye Dunaway played a beautiful fashion photographer who could see through the eyes of a serial killer as he commits his crimes. Perdis says "My team and I have interpreted Laura Mars with a modern take of course. Skin has been kept clean with a slightly dewy finish and we've then focused on a soft, natural but still sculpted cheek"

The Laura Mars Look works the Ultimate Contour Palette just under the cheekbone to enhance your natural facial strengths and through the socket of the eye before dusting a pretty pink Loose Eye Dust over the lid. It's essentially a soft focus to keep the eye open and fresh. The strength of the look comes from the strong burgundy lip: high colour, high gloss, high impact balanced by a classic-glam burgundy nail. The ultimate impact is sleek, glamorous and captivating.

Get the Look: 

1. For a look lit from within, prep with Napoleon Complex Skin Renewal Serum.

2.  For a look that will last follow with Auto Pilot Pre-Foundation Primer.  

3.  Mascara First! Map out your eye area using Long Black Mascara Double Black.

4. Boost your skintelligence with Sheer Genius Foundation and set to perfection with Camera Finish Powder Foundation. 

5.  Sculpt the face with a "Couture Contour" and sweep The Ultimate Contour Palette contour color under the cheekbones, through the socket and inner bridge of the eye.

6.  Comb brows and hold in place with Peep Show Mascara Madame Crystal.

7.  Wash Loose Eye Dust Pink Champagne over the entire eye lid.

8.  Apply Front Row Red Lipgloss with a luscious coating of Luminous Lip Veil Berry Contrary over the top.

9.  Line lips last with Lip Pencil Plum Role.

LOOK 2: METALIKA

Look two is a wearable, on-trend adaptation of the metallic beauty trend seen on the runways and the perfect launch pad for the Napoleon Perdis METALIKA colour collection. "Confession: This makeup look is my favourite of the three. It's based around my current colour collection, Metalika, which is a play of both heavy and soft metal hues."

"This girl is just a gorgeous glamazon; strong yet soft, glamorous but not intimidating, slightly intense but not overwhelming. It's really all about the eyes - and some stunning but still soft metallic accents which is totally on trend right now. Skin is radiant, as though the girl has been lit from within. Eyes are accentuated with black liquid liner and a smoky, espresso shadow and then played up a little by mixing metallic shades of Loose Dust and cream eyeshadow to highlight the inner corners of the eye. A dense false lash helps to anchor all that detail. A shimmery nude nail and a totally natural, barely-there glossy lip completes the story. It's a look that's definitely rock inspired but we've really worked on that element of softness so it's still super pretty."

Get the look: 

1. For a healthy glow, use Napoleon Skin Renewal Serum. 

2. For a perfect foundation landing use Auto Pilot Pre-Foundation Skin Primer. 

3. Create a frame for the face with Mesmer-Eyes Mascara.

4. For a dewy, sheer finish apply Advanced Mineral Makeup and set with Camera Finish Powder Foundation. 

5. Work a slight contour through the cheekbones with The Ultimate Contour Palette.

6. Define and tame your brows with a clear mascara like Peep Show Madame Crystal.

7. Smudge China Doll Eyeliner Equinox along the upper and lower lash line.  Continue to smudge over the lid and through the socket. 

8. Sweep Color Disc Espresso To Go along the lower lash line and through the socket for a seductively smoky finish. 

9.  Mix Loose Eye Dust Copper Element with Crème De La Crème Quicksilver.and sweep along the inner corner of the top lash line and around the inner corner of the eye. 

10.  "Fluttery Will Get You Everywhere!" Accessorize with Lashes Hoya.

11.  Keep lips natural with Auto Pilot Lip Service.  

LOOK 3: ANTIPODEAN WINTER

The Antipodean Winter look is winter perfection! It has a barely-there base with a focus on a very matte, orange lip. It's perfect for those who gravitate towards a nude or neutral palette but want to add a bit of a punch to their look.

Of the fresh-faced look (with lush bold lips!) Perdis says, 'If a makeup look can reflect a culture then this is Australia to me. It speaks to that freshness and vitality for which Australian women are so admired.'

This look works for all occasions: it's pretty for day, perfectly appropriate for the office while adding the edge of the orange lip, and gorgeous for evening. It's all about skin prep and a sheer veil of a semi-matte base. Brows and lashes are understated yet groomed enough to balance the lip that is the pop of colour and focus. I also love the clash of the minty green nail colour here - so modern. This look has an enviable ease to it; it's minimal effort, maximum impact.

Get the look:

1. Start by nourishing the skin from outside in with Napoleon Complex Skin Renewal Serum.  

2. Prep skin to perfection with Auto Pilot Pre Foundation Primer. 

3.  Map your eye look with a coat of mascara. We used Peep Show Mascara Madame Curl Curl. 

4.  For a flawless finish, spritz on a veil of Boudoir Mist Spray Foundation. 

5.  Add a pretty pink flush to the cheeks- Barely Blushing Barely Buff. 

6.  Comb brows and hold in place with Peep Show Mascara Madame Crystal. 

7.  Wash Color Disc Skinny Dip over the entire eye lid.

8.  Line lips in Lip Pencil Rococo Red for a crisp finish.

9.  Coat lips in DeVine Goddess Lipstick Niki.

10.  Press Color Disc in Tequila Sunrise into the lips for an on-trend matte finish.

What are they?

Hydroxy acids are organic acids found in natural sources such as fruits, or are synthesized in the laboratory. They are used in skincare for their exfoliation and un-clogging properties, so they act as skin conditioners and exfoliants and they stimulate the production of new skin cells. Using hydroxy acids leaves the skin less dull and smoother in texture with clearer pores.

What is the difference between AHAs and BHA?

The main difference between alpha hydroxy acids and beta hydroxy acids is their ability to deal with oil. Alpha hydroxy acids are water-soluble only, so they're not as effective in unclogging the skin. Beta hydroxy acids are soluble in oil so they're excellent for dealing with blocked and acne skin types.

AHAs

Alpha hydroxy acids are mostly derived from fruit and milk sugars. There are several different types of AHA: lactic acid from milk, glycolic acid from sugar, citric acid from fruits, tartaric acid from grapes and malic acid from apples. They work by reacting with the upper layer of the epidermis, weakening the dead skin cells there and speeding up our skin's shedding process. This means dead skin cells are loosened and shed more easily, underlying fresh skin cells are revealed and new skin cell growth is initiated.

Because of their ability to exfoliate and reveal fresh skin, alpha hydroxy acids can assist in the reduction of surface lines, roughness and uneven skin tone (pigmentation). Because they're water soluble, alpha hydroxy acids are better suited to dry, sun-damaged skin where acne isn't a concern. Any skin care product should contain a concentration of at least 5 to 15 percent of alpha hydroxy acids for ideal results.

AHAs are commonly used in skin peel treatments to deal with pigmentation, ageing and dryness. These treatments are performed by skin therapists.

BHAs

Beta hydroxy acid is also known as Salicylic acid. It's more effective at working deeper in the skin and eliminating clogging in the pores. BHA is commonly used in acne skin treatments usually in a dosage of 1 to 5 percent. Often both AHAs and BHA will be used together in skin treatments for problem skin for a thorough surface exfoliation and pore clean.

BHA is commonly used in skin peel treatments to deal with acne and clogged skin. These treatments are performed by trained skin therapists.

AHA and BHA skin type cheat Sheet

I have:

by Allison Browning


Have you got a skin question? Ask our skin and wellbeing expert Allison!